Hi, new to the forum here but have read many of the strap reviews here before... thanks for the detailed reviews
And to the thread, I wanted to share a bit of what I experienced and to ask a few more questions. It all comes down to preferences, but here are a few things to think about.
First of all, where you want the buckle. At first, with other watches, I generally liked the buckle dead center of the underside and it would be fine (afterall, getting a watch isn't about the strap) but now, after getting a pam (or multiple now....darn addiction) I found that I don't want the buckle at the center. Due to the size of the buckles, I find that being able to see the buckle with a normal watch taking pose (probably the watch face at 45deg angle) beautiful.
Second, and again...with other watches, I didn't mind the tail much, a bit longer, a bit short, as long as it wasn't so short that it was difficult to get it through the keeper and so long that it went over the lugs, I was good. Now with panerai, I want it generally longer for daily wear and extra long for the vintage/rugged look. probably 15-20mm from the lugs would be perfect.
Third, the thickness. OEM is usually something like 3.5mm and thins out at the buckle or at the ends to like 2mm. This makes it less bulky, so you can fit it under the cuffs...but that's not the case with aftermarket, so that changes things. With thickness ranging from 3mm (considered thin) to upwards of 5mm evenly, it gives the watch a very different look.
Fourth, tapered or not. This doesnt really affect the sizing, but it's good to note that this small detail changes the buckle and affects the length just a tad. Big buckles, you really dont want at the center of the underside...
So all in all, what I ended up with is that most aftermarket sizing is adjusted so that you can wear the strap like it were OEM. buckle centered, just maybe 15mm outside the floating keeper. 7-7.5" wrist for 80/130 is usually ok. For me, I have a 6.75" wrist and got an ammo strap from ted su (single layer 3.5mm) at 80/130 and thought "nice, a long strap for the rugged look" but it just didn't look right. Either 2nd hole from the lugs, it was too tight, 3rd hole is wearable but then that would mean it was just the same as OEM. The measurements can be misleading at first. The tail end length (longer end) doesnt dictate size of wrist!! It just dictates how much tail you get. It might sound too long but the more strap you tuck in under the tail side by shfiting holes without changing wrist size, the more tail it needs. Something to know is that the first hole is usually 50mm from the lugs and each hole is 7.5mm apart (usually again). Don't take the total length of the strap, take it from the hole you want to use. If I want to use the first hole (so the gpf style flat buckle, a very nice one from ted su) would stick out to look nice, then I would need something closer to 90 on the buckle side. and to get the military look, a nice long tail, it'd be more like 90/145 and this is just for a 6.75" wrist!!! So all in all, that's my experience. I'm ok with 85/130 or 85/135 for most straps, tight on first or comfy on 2nd hole (i wear my watches loose...in the humidity in HK), but I would rather 90/130 or 90/135 for most straps of 4mm, the standard for aftermarket. So get your straps longer than you think you need if you're new to this and you should be ok
Does anyone else share the same thoughts? I hear a lot of people saying 6.75" wrist, 75/125 is perfect. I see at least 85/130 to look nice
Wearing panerai straps on first hole from lugs makes it a ton nicer! Try it.
I'll post some pics later to show you guys what I mean... but good luck in the hunt. This whole strap addiction is just kinda nuts... I could probably get another watch already!
Good luck!